Re: Joining toroid ends was Toroid Construction

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <FutureT-at-aol-dot-com>

In a message dated 12/19/00 2:14:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
tesla-at-pupman-dot-com writes:

>  For those of you who have built this style, I would appreciate some 
>  pointers 
>   on
>    how to join the ends to each other in a secure, non-lumpy manner.
>     
>    Thanks,
>    --Steve Young

Steve,

Method 1 :
To join the ends of the dryer ducting, I cut the ends carefully so that
2 or the 4 corregations remain at each end. (there are normally
4 in a bunch).  I then drill small holes into the side of the corregations
at each end, after the ends are brought together, so the holes line
up.  I drill 2 holes close together in 4 sets around the duct ends.
Then i fashion "staples" using # 22 buss wire, and place them 
through the holes, so they actually staple the ends together.
I bend the staple ends over with a needle nose pliers, and solder the 
staple ends together for strength.  The buss wire and solder are
below the surface of the ducting, so there's no bump at all, and
there are 4 corregations together as there should be.  THus
the joint is almost invisible.

Method 2:
Cut the ends same as above, but do not drill.  Rather make a
wooden plug that fits into the ends of ducting.  Plug must be
special shape with double curve, so it follows teh curve of how
the toroid "wants to be".  Plug fits 3/4" into each end, so plug
must be 1.5" thick.  after placing plug into one duct end, small
nails are hammered into the area of duct between corregations,
so nail head is below surface of duct.  About 5 nails are used
around duct end.  then other end of duct is placed over the
protruding wood, and more nails are placed (use a punch so
corregaitions are not dented.  

Using either method above.  The joint can only be seen if
one looks very closely at toroid, and the joint is smooth.  I actually
prefer the second method.

JOhn Freau