Re: 200:1 Potential Transformer... More Info

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Tesla729-at-cs-dot-com 

In a message dated 12/3/00 5:17:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, tesla-at-pupman-dot-com 
writes:

<< I have 10 Maxwell .03uF -at- 35KV caps that I can put together in various
 configurations to get the voltage up and the capacitance down to the proper
 levels, I was thinking of using 3 in series for a total of .01uF -at- 105KV. >>

Hi Jason,

How about 9 of those Maxwells in a 3 string of 3 for .03 uF -at- 105 kV?
At 252 lbs, I'd say you have a real hause of a PT! I would guess it to be
in the 2 to 3 KVA rating range and that means that you could easily run
it -at- 8 to 10 KVA in intermittent Tesla service. At .01 uF, I think you 
would be seriously hamstringing the power potential of your PT.

<< I was planning on using
the same static gap that I have been using and increasing the gap spacing
(is this really a god idea?). My current gap is shown at
http://www.vortexia-dot-com/coil/images/  It is built in a piece of 8" diameter
PVC and has a 2000 CFM blower that pulls air in the top of the gap assembly
and vents out of the bottom, I can cover the top with acrylic sheet to
increase the air velocity it needed. >>

I think that you would really need to build a rotary gap system to properly 
handle the power levels that you could easily handle with this transformer.
>From looking at your current static gap, I would guess that it could reliably
handle 3 to 4 KVA without much problem, but if you went much above that,
I think you would run into quenching problems.

<< I have one other question, I have been wondering the best way to get the
power from the transformer to the coil over a longer physical distance. The
potential transformer stands 2ft tall and I did not want to place it too
close to the coil and risk it getting struck. My only thought was to use
something like RG-8 coaxial cable, I can't seem to find any good high
voltage insulated cable around that will handle that much voltage >>

Just use regular stranded building wire and insert it into vinyl tubing, 
available
at most hardware or building suppy stores. For really good HV insulation,
go to your neighborhood neon sign shop and ask for the required footage of
"GTO cable" that they use to wire the HV to the neon signs and then insert
the GTO cable thru the vinyl tubing. My guess would be that this setup
should easily handle 30 KVAC with no problems. Make sure that walls of
the vinyl tubing are at least 1/16" thick, though, especially if you're just
using building wire. 

Then you can insert the vinyl tubing covered wire into some grounded flexi-
ble aluminum electrical conduit (Greenley or Romex). This will make the 
HV line safer from both an electrocution standpoint and from a output strike
standpoint, in case the insulation fails.

<<<Thank You all again!!!

                    Jason Zuberer>>>

David Rieben