Re: I want to ride my bicycle, i want to ride my bike.....

To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: I want to ride my bicycle, i want to ride my bike.....
From: FutureT-at-aol-dot-com (by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>)
Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 17:05:39 -0600
Approved: twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net
Delivered-To: fixup-tesla-at-pupman-dot-com-at-fixme

In a message dated 99-05-03 21:26:34 EDT, you write:

<< Original Poster: "christopher boden" <chrisboden-at-hotmail-dot-com> 
 
> Geek Group useless idea #182
 
> Project-1 is getting closer to completion everyday and so we figured it is 
> time to build the torus.
> The idea is to remove the tire from a 20" Bicycle wheel and replace it with 
> metal ducting. >>

Christopher,

The minor and major diameters of the toroid should be "correct" for the
TC design and power input.  I assume that you will use ducting that is
considerably larger in diameter than the original tire.  For instance if the
tire is 2" in minor diameter or so, you might want to use ducting of 4"
in minor diameter.  Generally toroids have a ratio of 1:4 or so between
the minor and major diameters.  If you use a skinny toroid, let's say
2" by 22", it will produce a great number of shorter weaker shorter
sparks than a toroid of more traditional dimensions, assuming the TC
has sufficient power to drive it properly.  You can use an open slinky
type design if desired.

The bicycle wheel will be heavier than a traditional toroid.  I mentioned
a method I use of resting the toroid on a pair of criss-crossed cut 
curtain rods.  Many folks use a foil covered fiber disc or metal disc
to fill the toroid center hole.  In any case it's not necessary to have a
smooth surface on the toroid.  The sparks will tend to be about the 
same length either way, but it is possible that the toroid should be a 
little larger if it's not smooth.  The main determinants of the toroid
size are; power input, break-rate, and desired spark appearance and
length.  

John Freau