Re: PVC diameter and cap question
We put holes in our sec coils with all coils less than 10 inches dia. This
is no problem at all. Just silicone in place two 1/4 inch thick acrylic or
PE disks. Sand them for a very tight fit and tap them in each end approx 4
inches down. Apply the silicone and let dry for 36 hours for complete cure
before sealing up the sec. ends.
As soon as the magnet wire enters the sec tube solder it to a small piece of
flexible 20 AWG stranded wire. Cover this with a piece of tygon tubing.
Apply generous amounts of silicone to the entrance point (approx 3/4-1 inch
thick) and over the brass bolt that feeds the ground out --- and also the
top HV out. We use 5/16 inch dia brass bolts or studs on all of our smaller
Lots of silicone and the disks with destroy this myth of not drilling into
the sec coil. Been doing it this way for 35 years -- and never a single
With larger coils and pole xmfr operating units we still use the disks. We
bring the grond end inside for connection to 1/2 inch dia brass studs, but
keep the HV end outside and slowly spiral it up to the top toroid. We place
the disks approx 10 inches in on each end with the larger coils with coil
lengths of 5-10 feet long.
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Saturday, June 12, 1999 5:13 AM
Subject: Re: PVC diameter and cap question
>Original Poster: Don Allen <dona-at-amigo-dot-net>
>At 06:31 PM 6/10/99 -0600, Tesla List wrote:
>>Original Poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-jpl.nasa.gov>
>>SDR also comes in white... I just scavenged a nice 10" diam piece about 5'
>>long from the guys working on the landscaping at the bottom of my street.
>>How do I know it is SDR? It is stamped on the side.
>I went to a plumbing supply store and found a 6" SDR-35 pipe that I can
>use. I've sanded it pretty well and it's just about ready to get dried per
>method in a box with a lamp. Secondary will be 888 turns of #22 wire on
>my homemade winding jig.
>The 15Kv 60 ma NST that I bought from another coiler came
>in via the post office, however the box was mangled and the insulator
>around the 120v input sustained damage on the bottom terminal. By damage
>I mean the insulator was in pieces. I took out a meter and put one probe on
>case ground and the other on the terminal. No continuity, so the terminal
>inside appears to be intact and isn't touching the case.
>When the NST came in and I saw the damage, I freaked and I called a sign
>company, thinking I could get a spare insulator. They don't do any neon
>anymore but they put me in touch with a local NST repairman. He didn't have
>an insulator, but suggested the "JB Weld fix". I used the entire set. It
>I visited his shop today and bought another 15kv 60ma NST (old
>from him for $25, so now I have two. While I could wire both of these
>together and use them, I think it prudent to keep one as a backup, just in
>I screw up or something blows.
>I started out a few weeks ago with George Trinkaus's book on building a TC,
>but I've learned a lot by reading other coiler's pages and looking at
>designs. One thing that RQ is emphatic about is not putting any holes in
>secondary coilform, where Trinkaus suggests drilling holes and running wire
>inside the form. No holes are being put in my coilform and I'm doing my
>per RQ's specs. It just makes more sense. Both ends will be sealed so no
>of a spark getting inside the coilform. I think Trinkaus means well, but
>I avoided what could have been a major headache if I had followed his TC
>method. I did get a chuckle with Trinkaus use of a toilet float for a
>Question #1 - I like Gary Lau's primary design using 1/4" refrigeration
>a 6" coil, how many turns should it have?
>Question #2 - Where can I find a variac?
>Question #3 - I've been following discussions about the use of MMC's, but
>there any kind of consensus what is the best type to use (least amount of
>"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God" - Thomas Jefferson