Re: New LTR Stuff

Hi Terry,

> emmc04.jpg - A close up showing the terminals and 10Meg 1/2 watt drain
> resistors.  I still strongly recommend these...  I do not recommend
> interconnecting the strings since it defeats the selectable values and
>will defeat the possible self healing of the caps.

Did you crimp or solder on those solderless lugs? I wouldnīt trust
crimping jobs at all.

> power01.jpg - My new variac control box.  Made from 3/4 inch oak with
> cooling fan, nice safety lights, switches, and contactors as well as
> dual stage AC filters and MOVs.  Front panel is t-6061 Aluminium
>with rub on  lettering imbedded in polyurethane.  This baby will out
>last me.  I forget how much it cost. :-))

VERY cool looking. Provides all necessary equipment and looks totally
"uncluttered" There can be nothing worse than having to fumble around
finding the main on/off sw in an emergency....... I wanna see more
pictures (like the insides and a schematic (unless this is a best-kept
secret ;o)). I would add a jack for a remote control (like a foot
switch), tho.

> sync01.jpg - My new sync gap.  A sync motor I got from Dr. Resonance,
> poly disk cut from a commercial poly cutting board, Thorated tungsten
> electrodes (destroyed two files cutting them and meticulously
> containing the radioactive dust...) and a replacement drill chuck as a
> mount for the disk.  The 1/8" tungsten rod costs about $1 per inch.
> It is used in TIG welding and is commonly available but you have to
> ask...  If any one needs the radioactive or plain kind let me know...

Using an angle grinder mounted on a cut-off stand with a diamond coated
cutting wheel (used e.g.for ceramics) will save you your files. One of
course should wear a dust mask, when cutting them this way. You can
save yourself the problems thorated ones present (at least in Europe),
by using the new non-thorated ones. The ones I am talking about are
NOT the pure tungsten ones. They have the same wear characteristics of
thorated ones, but do not contain radioactive material. If you use the
side pick up idea (Gary Lau & me), the electrodes do not have to be
1000% plane on the ends, nor do they have to be 1000% the same
length, because the arcing surface is now along the length and not
the width of the electrode.

> sync02.jpg - I think this is a neat idea!  I got a $12 replacement
> drill chuck from the hardware store.  It bits on the sync motor
> shaft and has a 3/8-20 threaded hole on the back that I got a
> bolt for.  It grabs the shaft and perfectly mounts and aligns the
> disk on the motor shaft.  All high precision and very easy to
> "play" with.  I worry about the chuck shaking loose with time
> but one could always epoxy it.  This is a 1800 RPM motor
> that will be fully enclosed so I don't worry...

Hmmm. Something like a quick change differential, oops sorry, the car
bug got the better of me, I meant of course a quick change for your
BPS rate (using different disks with different electrode numbers).  I
didnīt expect a $12 chuck to be precise enough for this....... ;o). On
the other hand the drill isnīt supposed to wobble either. As your motor
shaft is pretty thick, it should "grab" quite well.

> sync03.jpg - The back of the rotor showing the 3/8-20 bolt, the poly
> and the tungsten electrodes.  I hope the disk does not melt but this
>gap will see fairly easy service so it should be ok...

What material is your old RSG made of? It looks (really bright white)
like Teflon or similar material.

Keep the photos "a cominī"

Coiler greets from Germany,