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Re: HELP ME PLEASE!
Tesla List wrote:
>
> Subscriber: knardell-at-mailhost.accesscom-dot-net Tue Dec 31 23:02:49 1996
> Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 14:24:08 -0600
> From: Kevin <knardell-at-mailhost.accesscom-dot-net>
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Re: HELP ME PLEASE!
>
> NOTE How I changed your diagram and this will be how my coil is a this time,
> you tell me where I am going wrong. I do get sparks now but if they will be
> better your way so be it.
>
> >You need to get the system tuned and running properly with static gaps
> >before even thinking about migrating to a rotary gap. A rotary with SW
> >caps will not improve coil performance, and may blow up your neons.
> >
> >Make sure your spark gaps are connected across your neon transforrmer
> >outputs. The SW cap bank should be connected in series with your TC
> >primary winding. In your earlier post, I got the impression that this
> >MAY not be how your coil is hooked up.
>
> Do NOT connect your SW caps
> >directly across the neons and run the gaps in series with the primary!
> WHY NOT??????????????????
> > __________
> > (__________) Toroid
> > ( 18"
> > Gap (
> > -----------------||---------) (
> > HV1 | ) (
> > | ) (
> > To _ ) (
> > Neons _ caps ) Primary ( Secondary
> > | ) (
> > | ) (
> > HV2 | ) (
> > -----------------||--------- (
> > Gap (
> > ------------
> > |
> > |
> > -----
> > / / / Dedicated RF Groundrods
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >You'll need to provide some additional information below:
> >
> >>From your earlier post:
> >
> >> Specs:
> >> Primary>10 turns 1/4" copper tube tapped at 8th, turns spaced 1" apart >
> and the coil has a 30 deg. bank.
> >>
> >
> >What's the inside and outer diameter?
> Inside 5" outter about 18"
> >> Secondary> 851 turns of #22 magnet wire coated with many coats of
> >> varnish and tight wound.
> >
> >What is the coilform diameter, winding length, and what's the size and
> >shape of the top termination?
> Coilform diameter is 4" , winding length 23" (851 turns) top termination??
> I use a porcelin insulator at the top and sit the toroid on the bare cleaned
> end of the wire.
>
> >> Power> two neon sign transformers in parallel rated at 15KV and 30 Ma, >
> Power in is 110VAC
> >>
> >> Capacitor> Saltwater bottle caps, Value????...well they work..
> >
> >What type of bottles are you using for your SW cap, and how many are
> >connected in series/parallel?
> Parallel and at this time 6 ice tea bottles 3 1/2" in diamater Glass.
> >>
> >> Gap> Dual gaps on each HV to primary
> >
> >What is the gap spacing and type of construction. Also, are the gaps
> >ACROSS the transformer HV outputs (see ASCII art sketch)
> The gaps are almost a half inch spaced in order for the coil to make streamers.
>
> >Is your secondary base lead grounded via a separate, dedicated RF ground
> >line going to groundrods? You also may want to purchase a variac to more
> >precisely control the output of the coil. With the additional details
> >above, we should be able to provide you with some help.
>
> Yes it is
> >Safe coilin' to you!
> >
> >-- Bert --
> >
> >
>
> ********************************************
> * T E S L A C O I L S *
> ********************************************
> Kevin Nardelle knardell-at-accesscom-dot-net
> My main web page soon to be all TESLA
> related with lotsa pictures and links.
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>
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> http://www.icorp-dot-net/users/kev
> ***********************************************
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Kevin,
>From a TC output sparklength standpoint, either gap/cap configuration
will work with relatively little difference. However, if you want your
neon transformers to last longer, put the gap across the outputs. See
another post from me today (answering the same question from another
coiler) that explains why this is the case.
>From the dimensions provided, it looks like you're running at around 550
- 600 kHz. Adding a toroid should significantly improve performance, but
you will need to add significantly more tank capacitance to bring the
system back in tune (with your existing primary). Adding an 18" toroid
will cause the secondary to drop to about 300-350 kHz, and you'll need
to _add_ another 10-12 SW iced-tea bottles to your existing bank of six.
However, there are lots of benefits when you do this:
- Your AC "skin effect" losses will decline -> more power out the top
- Your operating frequency will now be out of the commercial AM band
- Your primary energy "per bang" will rise significantly. This means
your secondary output energy will as well.
- Your secondary will break down at a higher voltage (you may need
to play with coupling now to avoid flashovers on the secondary of
from secondary to primary). This will give you a hotter output once
it does.
- You'll more closely match the current ratings on the neons ->
more average power outout for your coil.
You can always make the toroid "break out" by placing a conductive
object on top, or by adding a "bump" of adhesive-backed foil on the
side. This is very useful for safely tuning for maximum spark when
you're making tuning or coupling changes. One last thing, since you
don't yet have a variac, when you make tuning changes, do so with
reduced gap settings. One you're in tune, you can begin to open them up
(do this in the dark, and watch for any signs of excess corona or
flashovers). However, You probably shouldn't go over 0.5" (total) if you
value your 15 KV neons. Note that this is _especially_ critical when you
increase your tank capacitance and run into 60 Hz resonance between your
neons and the tank caps. You may want to consider going to a Richard
Quick type series gap or vacuum gap to improve performance
Finally, once you get the system percolating properly, you should look
at improving the tank caps. Going to a homemade LDPE cap will be the
biggest single system improvement you can make. Check out Gary Weaver's
latest home-made cap post!
Safe coilin' to you, Kevin!
-- Bert --