Re: Toroids

From: 	Kenneth Aaron[SMTP:kennetha-at-geocities-dot-com]
Sent: 	Friday, August 08, 1997 8:29 AM
To: 	Tesla List
Subject: 	Re: Toroids

At 07:08 AM 8/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
>From: 	Chuck Curran[SMTP:ccurran-at-execpc-dot-com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, August 06, 1997 10:52 PM
>To: 	Tesla List
>Subject: 	Re: Toroids
>Tesla List wrote:
>> From:   Jay Bohn[SMTP:sunsoft-at-pacifier-dot-com]
>> Sent:   Tuesday, August 05, 1997 10:55 PM
>> To:     tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
>> Subject:        Toroids
>> I have seen quite a few of Tesla Coils topped with a metal toroid.
>> Where is everyone finding these?
>> Are most home brew?
>> What would an alternate "Top Cap. Hat" be? (Copper toilet float)?
>> I have been lurking on this list and have enjoyed the info.
>> By the way, This is my first "post" ever!
>> Thanks...
>Hello Jay:
>Welcome to the list, it's proven to be an open and friendly place where
>you can normally get your questions answered very quickly.  The toroid's
>have been made in a number of different ways, but I've got a favorite. 
>If you go to your local hardware or building supply store you will be
>able to locate the two key materials.  The first is flexible aluminum
>air ducting, which looks sort of like an accordian like material.  4"
>diameter sections are typically available for dryer ducts.  I've seen 6"
>also in building supply stores. At Industrial Heating shops it can be
>purchase to 12" and over diameters.  This is the stuff to make the
>"Do-nut" part of the toroid with.  One end of this ducting is tapered in
>order to plug it into the opposite end, so it fits together really
>slick.  I have used RTV silicon rubber cement to hold it together and
>also attach it to the center flat hub.  For the second material, I have
>purchased 1" sheets of foam insulation, that is clad with aluminum foil
>for my center hubs.  I simply cut out the round disk based on the design
>requirements, then space it up off the floor to position it at the
>center point of the flexible aluminum duct mentioned above.  I attach
>one end along about a 6" length and let it dry over night, holding it in
>place with all those one gallon paint cans from under the work bench, or
>is it under the stairs at your house?  The next night I extend the duct
>around the foam circle attaching it with RTV and then I tape the entire
>duct with aluminum tape.  Just to make sure I got a real good connection
>I've always layed sections of bare copper wire from the duct to the
>center sheet just to make real sure there's a positive connection. 
>After it's taped (to smooth out the surface) it is really very strong. 
>I've got one that is 6" by 40" and another 10.5" by 56" and both have
>worked great and are still in perfect shape.  The big one cost about
>$64.00 to build, just as a reference point.
>Hope this helps to give you a starting point.
>Chuck Curran

I've been trying to use rubber inner tubes from old car tyres.
You could even use tracktor tyres for giant toroids.
since rubber is not  such a good conductor I would coat it with aluminum 
foil and then use it , I have not tried it without.

If anyone could give comments about this...
Kenneth Aaron 
E-mail : kennetha-at-geocities-dot-com