RE- Re: Rotary Gap
From: Robert Michaels[SMTP:robert.michaels-at-online.sme-dot-org]
Sent: Monday, August 04, 1997 5:03 PM
Subject: RE- Re: Rotary Gap
In my traditionalist approach, I make/make-do with a pine
board (yellow; or Southern white). After pre-cutting to an
exact circle, I place it in a preheated =electric= oven
(kitchen range) set at very low heat and allow it to
remain for several hours.
Upon removal from the oven I immediately soak the pine
board in insulating material (I prefer paraffin dissolved
in naphtha, but low viscosity epoxy or polyurethane should
After a good soak, I remove it and let it dry.
It's cheap and available everywhere. Works just fine. Is light
weight. Is easy to fabricate. Doesn't break. Won't kill if it
does. Holds-up under 10-14 Kv with no apparent problems.
If it's good-enough for
Dr. Tesla it's good-enough
Robert Michaels, in --
T>In a message dated 97-08-04 02:32:31 EDT, you write:
T>> Thanks for keeping me out of harms way! The only place that I have
T>> found that sells G-10 is a plastics company that I buy my poly, and
T>> epoxy from. They only sell the stuff in 24" x 48" sheets, and the price
T>> works out to several hundred dollars! Sooo I'll probably use lexan.
T>> Thanks for your help!
T>> Frankensteins Helper
T>I use lexan for my rotors, but as Ed Wingate mentioned, heat can be a
T>problem, since lexan has such a low softening temperature. My rotor
T>and spinning electrodes run absolutely cold during operation, so I don't
T>really have to worry about heat. But whenever I try a new TC design, I
T>make a few tests of varying run times to verify that the electrodes are
T>still running cool.
T>By the way, some places sell smaller pieces (1 foot squares) of G10.