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RE: Primaries and Copper Tubing
Subject: RE: Primaries and Copper Tubing
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 04:20:24 UT
From: "William Noble" <William_B_Noble-at-msn-dot-com>
To: "Tesla List" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
if I may say so, to your advice to scrap out work hardened copper
tubing,
"nonsense". yes copper work hardens, and purer copper does it more, but
if
you heat it with a torch it gets nice and soft again - heat up to the
incadescent stage - at least a dull red glow. I would use an
oxyacetolene
torch, but propane or natual gas will get it hot enough also. You can
immediately quench the copper, or not, it does't matter (it's not like
iron
where quenching affects the metallic lattice and thus hardness). The
same
technique applies to gold or silver (if any of you are making solid gold
primaries, you will notice the lowest possible resistance, and the
maximum
resale value)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List
Sent: Friday, April 18, 1997 8:25 AM
To: tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: Primaries and Copper Tubing
Subject: Re: Primaries and Copper Tubing
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 07:14:03 -0700
From: DR.RESONANCE" <DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net>
To: "Tesla List" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
[Bill] SNIP
Once you bend or straighten the tubing first it "work-hardens" and
becomes
completely unable to make smooth bends. If you have done this you will
have to scrap it out and start with a new roll. Also, best to use
K-soft
copper. There is another type used for plumbing that work hardens much
faster and is much harder to work with. Guess what --- the electrons
won't
know the difference!!!
DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net