Re: More rotary gap questions...(materials)

To: tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: More rotary gap questions...(materials)
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-stic-dot-net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:41:07 -0500
Approved: tesla-at-stic-dot-net

Subject: 
        Re: More rotary gap questions...
  Date: 
        Mon, 14 Apr 1997 19:12:54 -0400 (EDT)
  From: 
        richard hull <rhull-at-richmond.infi-dot-net>
    To: 
        Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>

snip
>
>These 'flaming power arcs' that I've heard so much about would probably
>destroy just about anything in short order, correct ?
>
>I'm thinking about useing the 'brass screw/acorn nut' method, since it
>seems so easy to make/repair/balance...
>
>Does anything in the collective wisdom suggest a better solution ?
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Daryl
>
>

Daryl,

The term flaming doesn't denote heat.  It is a "condition",... a bad
one.  A
gap that flames might even be cooler than one that doesn't!

The electrode material depends on the input power and the sort of gap
you
are planned to construct. Brass zinc and copper are OK up to about 1KW
in
common amateur construction.  In careful construction, copper can be
used to
5KW by a well versed amateur.  Most, however, move on to tungsten,
inspite
of its poor working characteristics.  I have found  elemental niobium,
molybdenum, and tantalum to work OK at moderate powers with niobium
being a
real winner in the machinability catagory.

Richard Hull, TCBOR