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Re: Coil Form Losses



   Tungsten electrodes are expensive so if you purchase any of any size 
then you will most likely pay good money for them. If they are small 
in size the electrical density will make quenching the gap more 
difficult since the electrical density on each will be great. Also 
the smaller they become less of a heat sink. Either purchase some 
fairly fat ones or... use another cheaper material.
   I am using 1/2" stainless rods in my gap that have the ends rounded. 
I can sustain the arc for a couple of minutes before I have to turn it 
off and cool it down. Yes you will have to reshape the ends from time 
to time but that is the way of things unless you are using another 
method other than a spark gap.
   Also the more rods in the gap the more the quench effect will work 
while providing shorter arcs in the gap increasing gap life. (This is if 
you are using a static gap. If you use a rotary gap then My favorite 
are two opposing plexiglass or bakelite "wheels" with embeded 1/2" 
studs in opposition rotation to form the gap. The studs remain fairly 
cool and the quenching properties of the opposing rotation wheels
work well. The best way to "supply and gather" the current from the 
wheels are heavy brushes but fixed electrodes can also work, however, 
if the second method is used then the heating on it will be the 
run time limiting factor.
The biggest problem with this type of gap is syncronization of the 
studs. The only true way to drive this gap is gear driven to insure 
alignment at the correct moment.
A down and dirty gap would consist of only one wheel rotating in the 
center of two fixed electrodes. Have fun!

Sincerely,
Chris Singletary
Believe that you CAN accomplish the impossible and you shall.