[Prev][Next][Index][Thread]
Re: Coil Form Losses
Tungsten electrodes are expensive so if you purchase any of any size
then you will most likely pay good money for them. If they are small
in size the electrical density will make quenching the gap more
difficult since the electrical density on each will be great. Also
the smaller they become less of a heat sink. Either purchase some
fairly fat ones or... use another cheaper material.
I am using 1/2" stainless rods in my gap that have the ends rounded.
I can sustain the arc for a couple of minutes before I have to turn it
off and cool it down. Yes you will have to reshape the ends from time
to time but that is the way of things unless you are using another
method other than a spark gap.
Also the more rods in the gap the more the quench effect will work
while providing shorter arcs in the gap increasing gap life. (This is if
you are using a static gap. If you use a rotary gap then My favorite
are two opposing plexiglass or bakelite "wheels" with embeded 1/2"
studs in opposition rotation to form the gap. The studs remain fairly
cool and the quenching properties of the opposing rotation wheels
work well. The best way to "supply and gather" the current from the
wheels are heavy brushes but fixed electrodes can also work, however,
if the second method is used then the heating on it will be the
run time limiting factor.
The biggest problem with this type of gap is syncronization of the
studs. The only true way to drive this gap is gear driven to insure
alignment at the correct moment.
A down and dirty gap would consist of only one wheel rotating in the
center of two fixed electrodes. Have fun!
Sincerely,
Chris Singletary
Believe that you CAN accomplish the impossible and you shall.