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Re: Pointseries gaps 'vs' other types
In a message dated 96-02-13 21:22:09 EST, ccurran-at-execpc-dot-com (Chuck Curran)
writes:
>
>Hello Ed:
>
>>Then I built a rotary gap using a lexan disc---
>
>I am curious about material selection for a rotary spark gap. I too
>am interested in being careful with the rotor in the rotary gap. Do
>you know, or anyone else what a good material choice might be?? or
>phrased in another way did you select the lexan because of
>appropriate features or was it handy in the parts box? I was
>planning on ordering the plastic for the gap but need to resolve
>this point first. Do the metal parts get very hot--is temperature a
>concern for the selected material?
> I would also be interested in the material thicknesses that
>have been used for rotary/series gap rotors. I sure would
>appreciate your comments Ed and anyone else that's worked with this.
> I've purchased flange blocks with bearings rated at 7500 RPM,
>(with reduced life above this) for my gap. The Carter motor will
>drive through a Lovejoy flexible coupling into a 5/8" diameter
>centerless ground shaft. I've made an adapter to mate the "plastic
>rotor" to the shaft, next step is to order the plastic. There will
>be a minimum of 5 1/2" from the motor(motor case will be grounded)
>to any high voltage area on the gap--good or bad? Comments
>appreciated. Thanks in Advance!
>
>Chuck Curran
>
>
Chuck,
I used Lexan (polycarbonate) for the disc because it is a very durable
plastic. You can hit this stuff with a hammer as hard as you can and it will
only damage the immediate area where the hammer struck. It will not shatter.
I suppose nylon would also be a good choice. Mine is 3/8" thick. I had a
plastics shop make it so it would be well balanced. I am using a 1/2
horsepower 10,000 rpm motor. I would rather have had a 5,000 or 7,500 rpm
motor. I use two variacs in series to control it. I leave the first one set
at about 60% to control the maximum rpm and then bring the other one up
slowly to get it up to speed.
I use 1/4" stainless steel acorn nuts for the contacts. They are bolted
together through the disc using cut off 1/4" bolts approx. 7/8" long. I also
use external tooth star washers on each side to keep them tight. I used lock
tite the first time but it causes a chemical reaction with the lexan and
produced cracks radiating out from each hole. I am actually on the third
discl. I haven't seen any problems from heat damaging the wheel. The acorn
nuts do get burned pretty good. You should go to a fastener shop and buy a
box of these so you can have spares to change them after several hours of
running. If you buy them one at a time they are expensive.
Ed Sonderman