Re: Rotary gaps -- machine work
>From: Chip Atkinson <chip-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com>
>To: Tesla List <tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com>
>Subject: Re: Rotary gaps -- machine work
>I have turned two hubs from 2" round aluminum stock. I faced the thing
>in the lathe, and will use a boring bar to create the hole. This gives a
>hole that's perpendicular to the plane of the hub face. The hubs are
>about 2" long, so there's plenty of engagement of the shaft too.
>>From the sound of it, everyone (both who replied as I write this) has
>this problem. Yeah, I already have the ball bearing blocks. That was
>part of my design. Maybe I'll even take pictures and post them when done.
>Thanks for everyone's feedback. I believe that I'll shim up the worst
>nuts and turn the tips of them down so they are all "true".
I don't have a machine shop yet, so after drilling the holes
as true as I could on my drill press, I cheated. I installed my
stainless steel bolts, mounted the phenolic disk on it's arbor and
spun it with the motor. I then used my belt sander to "trim" all the
bolts to length. I've set my gaps to 0.030" with a feeler gage on the
highest bolt. I've not gotten a-round-toit to put the acorn nuts on
I don't have a dial gage to tell what my runout really is. It
looks small to my eye, but then that doesn't measure very well.
For fun, when you have it running, use just resistive ballast on your
pig and see if you can get a power arc completely around the
circumference of the disk. I did! The gap went very quite.