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Re: Of Mice and HV (fwd)
Original poster: Steven Roys <sroys@xxxxxxxxxx>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 10:34:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
To: High Voltage list <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Of Mice and HV (fwd)
I've used one of these in the past:
http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/mouse-trap-windup.htm
though it's not as much fun if you goal is
electrocution, it will effectively catch numerous
mice. I know from experience that catching/killing
mice will not work, until you find and seal every
place where they are gaining entry. In my case, I left
the garage door open one night and the mouse moved
into the garage. Then, it was only a matter of time
before he got into the house. Once I caught him, I
simply turned him loose. Since my home was already
vermin-proof, he never came back in.
Adam
--- High Voltage list <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Original poster: Steven Roys <sroys@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 07:20:03 +0930
> From: Matthew Smith <matt@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: High Voltage list <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Of Mice and HV
>
> Greetings All
>
> CONTENT WARNING: If you are distressed by nasty
> things happening to
> vermin (small furry creatures to those not infested
> with them), please
> do not read any further.
>
> They don't make 'em like they used to! Our house,
> completed just over
> two years ago (actually not completed, but that's
> another story!)
> appears to have been built to accommodate rodents
> just as comfortably as
> humans.
>
> Snap traps have proved anything but reliable (bait
> gone, trap still set)
> and when they do operate, frequently kill in an
> unclean manner.
>
> So, I have decided to build an electric mousetrap.
> Idea is simple:
> mouse enters trap and has to pass through a narrow
> gap between two
> aluminium plates arranged in a V. (Mouse enters the
> larger part of the
> V.) One plate is fixed, the other against light
> spring tension so that
> the subject has to push between the two plates to
> get to the bait.
>
> Plates are connected to a charged capacitor.
> Charging will be from a
> PWM supply driven by a microcontroller which stops
> when capacitor
> voltage reaches an upper threshold and starts again
> once it has
> discharged (mostly through the feedback voltage
> divider) down to a
> minimum voltage. The idea being that this device is
> battery-operated
> and tries to save power.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what minimum voltage I
> would need to apply to
> guarantee fatal fibrillation?
>
> I had considered powering from a disposable camera
> supply (no
> microcontroller - simply pulse the start button when
> the neon goes out)
> but, whilst photoflash capacitors can give us a
> ghastly bite, is the
> 300V or so enough to take out a mouse in its
> insulating fur coat? I've
> serviced equipment before where mice have gone in a
> mains (240V) PSU and
> have blown the fuses but am still unsure about the
> certainty of a clean
> kill.
>
> Once I've got this idea working, I want to motorise
> it so that the
> defunct rodent can be cleared from the plates and
> the trap be readied
> for another "client".
>
> Cheers
>
> M
>
> --
> Matthew Smith
> IT Consultancy & Web Application Development
> http://www.kbc.net.au
>
>
>
>
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