And what I use for my Green Monster piggy driven coil, at upwards of 15 kVA.
David
Yurtle Turtle via Tesla <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>100 nF sounds a little high for 120 ma. That's what I use for 25 kVA.
>
> From: Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: mddeming@xxxxxxx; Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, March 2, 2015 2:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v 60mA each) in parallel
>
>I was able to win on eBay a nice 6"x30" secondary (1400 turns 24 gauge) so
>I think I'm set here. I also made a toroid from 6" aluminum dryer ducting
>with a 24" total diameter. It's not 30" like the secondary winding but
>should have good results with a grounding ring above the primary copper
>tubing.
>
>All that's left is capacitance as I'll probably need about 100 nF to keep
>the primary taping under 12 turns otherwise I'll need to add more copper
>tube windings on the primary. And finally some sort of a spark gap with fan
>and upgrade to something fancy later on.
>
>Tim
>
>On Mon, Feb 23, 2015 at 10:01 AM, mddeming--- via Tesla <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>wrote:
>
>>
>> Comments interspersed
>>
>> Matt D
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 8:23 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v
>> 60mA each) in parallel
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the info Dave!
>>
>> So if I have only 24" long 6" diameter PVC pipe to work with, I keep
>> reading that you need 2-3" on both ends of the pipe that I wont have then.
>>
>> I'm assuming for the bottom end of he secondary pipe I would need to raise
>> it up 2-3" with a wooden block or other material BUT I am using 1" high
>> HDPE 12" long strips to hold the 50' of 1/4" refrigerator tubing, I would
>> assume I wouldn't have to raise the secondary only 1" then to make it even
>> with the 1" high HDPE strips. If it is raised only 1" I was thinking of
>> using PVC cement to attach it to the 1" high wooden block. I would then
>> attach the wooden block to the base with L brackets (non metal if I can
>> find them - but don't think it would matter).
>>
>> PVC cement does not adhere well to wood.
>> Depending on the coupling, it may be necessary to have the bottom of the
>> secondary windings an inch or two above the level of the primary and
>> somewhat adjustable.
>>
>> At the top of the 24" secondary (assuming almost the entire 24" length is
>> wire wound - or 23 to 23.5"), I would make it only about 23.5" and save the
>> last 0.5 inch to attach some way a toroid. BTW: is a large sphere any
>> better than a large torroid on this 6" diameter (24 " tall pipe) wound 23
>> or 23.5" of 26 gauge wire?
>>
>>
>> In my experience, large spheres do not work better better than a toroid.
>> They have aesthetic value.
>> I would like to use what I have already purchased but if I absolutely have
>> to have a longer 6" diameter, I think Menards has 10' lengths I saw online
>> but another expense for just being a few inches short with what I have at
>> 24" already.
>>
>> Another idea - since Lowes sells the 24" (6" diameter) pipe. whatabout
>> buying another 24" (6" diameter) pipe and using PVC cement them together
>> for 48" (6" diameter) and use a hacksaw to saw it down to maybe 30" or so,
>> Does that sound reasonable?
>>
>>
>> This sounds reasonable unless you are using very thinwall pipe. If using
>> thinwall, you would need to split a short length of pipe to make a gluing
>> collar
>> that would fit inside and make the joint sturdier.You could also try using
>> a 4X6reducer on each end to make attachments to pieces of 4-in pipe. for
>> elevating the toroid etc.(Coil would look somewhat like a large
>> rolling-pin?)
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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