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RE: [TCML] Flat Spiral Primary
If you have a drill press he is a easy way to drill the holes all the same
spacing's. If using 1/4 tubing this is the way I did it. First drill a 1/4
hole in a section of stock and a starting hole in each support, put a 1/4
bolt , shaft or pin in the hole of the stock. If you want 1/2 spacing
center to center. Clamp the stock off set from the drill bit with a 1/4 bolt
between the pin and drill bit. Now slip the drilled hole in the support over
the pin. Line up the edge of the space as required and clamp anything along
the edge. Now drill the next hole , move the support so the pin goes in the
hole you just drilled. With this set up you can drill 2 holes or 200 holes
with all the same spacing. Note after drilling I opened my holes to a "F"
size or you can use a 17/64 drill. If you think about the 1/4 tube does not
fit a 1/4 hole because the tube is on a radius and the hole will be
straight. You can them trim with a table saw , I used a router. Until you
get it where you have a little more than 50% of the hole so the tube can
snap in. Any of the numbers can be changed for different tube or spacing
sizes.
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of bartb
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:23 PM
To: Tesla Coil Mailing List
Subject: Re: [TCML] Flat Spiral Primary
Ken,
I've also used acrylic with good luck to hold the tubing. You are
correct, it is rigid and does not want to flex. It's good to "add" some
flexibility to the runner or the acrylic will actually dent the tubing.
By "add" flex, I'm referring to slits below holes like the following
image. Works for me.
http://www.classictesla.com/temp/Pristand.gif
Regards,
Bart
Chip Atkinson wrote:
> I have used acrylic with good luck to hold the tubing. I used a similar
> way of doing this but I drilled the holes close to the edge and then took
> a table saw and sawed part of the strip of acrylic so that greater than
> 1/2 circle remained. The tubing then just snapped in.
>
> Chip
>
> On Sun, 21 Mar 2010, Christopher Karr wrote:
>
>
>> Hello Ken,
>>
>> The only 'better' way of doing what you are speaking of (that I know of)
is making the primary former in such a manner that the 1/4" tube will snap
into the drilled areas, by way of cutting notches down to where the drilled
holes are.
>>
>> The notches are to be slightly smaller diameter than the tube, so that
the tube can't get back out of the notch/hole assembly on its own accord.
The tube can then be pushed into the form from one end of the roll to the
other, inside of the former to outside, and the excess cut off.
>>
>> The former (when using this method) cannot be acrylic (or plexiglass),
since they are far too rigid and fragile to shove something into them which
is larger than they're tapped for.
>>
>> Best wishes,
>>
>> - Christopher Karr
>>
>>
>>> From: kkociolek8577@xxxxxxxxxx
>>> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>>> Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 17:04:35 -0500
>>> Subject: [TCML] Flat Spiral Primary
>>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Been working on my TC for a few months now. I made primary supports for
the
>>> ?? copper tubing out of strips of 1? x ?? wood. Drilled 3/8? holes and
glued
>>> the supports down to a wood base in a symmetrical manner. Now I have to
>>> ?thread? the tubing into this circular support. Is this going to be a
>>> headache? Will the tubing get stuck after a few turns in? Was there a
better
>>> way to do this? I appreciate to hear comments from anyone who has been
down
>>> this road before. Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Tesla mailing list
>>> Tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>>> http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
>>>
>>
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