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Re: Capacitor Help



Original poster: "D.C. Cox" <resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>



We made an antique coil replica once and used oak (or you can use maple) that is kiln dried and then dipped into boiling paraffin. Very messy, somewhat dangerous, but it works very good. Still running after nearly 22 years.

Dr. Resonance



Malcolm in KC,

I would suggest using plastic for your primary supports. Wood will allow high voltage creeping and eventually shorts. Unless you dry it very well first and coat it with a few coats of varnish, shellac, etc. I have heard of folks cooking (?) wood in a bath of liquid wax for a permanent water proofing. I just use plastic. Also, I would definitely not try to thread the primary tubing through holes drilled in the supports. It is very difficult. I use notches and have a small hole drilled under each notch then use plastic wire ties to hold the tubing in place. I usually use 3/8" spacing between adjacent windings. This is enough space and still allows room for the clip on your tap lead.

Ed Sonderman

In a message dated 12/13/2005 8:00:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
I have beginner written all over me :)  I guess I didn't realize I could
work out how many primary turns I would need exactly.  After just reading
Terry's post with all the math I see it's very possible.  I thought though
as long as I wind to many I could always tap in lower down and be OK.  It
seems from Terry's math though I've got to little turns.  I will try and add
some more tubing tomorrow.  OR maybe I should remake the purches and wind
the same copper with 1/2" spaces instead of 3/4" spaces and get more turns.
I don't know how much more I'll get though.  If I do end up doing it over
I'm going to use 1 x 2" wood on edge with holes drilled though instead of
the notch method I tried.  It will be much more secure, easier to wind, and
probably look nicer too.