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Re: Ryan's Coil = Salvaged :-)



Original poster: "Bert Hickman by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <bert.hickman-at-aquila-dot-net>

Ryan,

You need to reduce the amount of power going into your system so that
you can confirm it's in tune and not overcoupled before really pouring
the coals to it. The larger the system, the more critical that it be in
proper tune before being operated at full power. You should also add
blocking baffles inside the secondary coilform (held in place via
silicon caulking or hot glue to reduce the odds of a repeat performance.
You should also elevate the secondary by an inch or two while setting up
the system. 

I'm assuming that you are running with a static gap. If not, you may
need to add a static gap in parallel with your rotary to control the
energy available from your tank circuit. Close down your main gap
spacing to reduce the energy per bang, and run with at least 2 MOT's
(secondaries short circuited) in series to limit primary current to the
pig. Focus on getting the best spark (best tune point) under lower
power. Then slowly increase the main gap spacing to increase the energy
available per bang, looking for any signs of flashovers. 

If you can run at the final desired gap settings, you can now reduce the
number of MOT's (and eventually you can connect them in parallel to run
even more current). Carefully run the coil in a darkened room after each
change to make sure that the added power or increased gap firing rates
do not induce breakdowns or abnormal corona. 

Finally, if you can run at full power with no signs of racing sparks or
flashovers, you can then begin to slowly increase coupling by lowering
the secondary relative to the primary. Continue (1/4 - 1/2" at a time)
until you begin to see signs of overcoupling (racing sparks). Raise the
secondary back up 1/4 to 1/2" and you should be set about right. 

And, finally, begin saving your money or begin perusing the local junk
yards for an inexpensive 240 volt variac!  You need a degree of "fine
tuning" for power that only a variac will provide. :^)

-- Bert --
-- 
Bert Hickman
Stoneridge Engineering
Email:    bert.hickman-at-aquila-dot-net
Web Site: http://www.teslamania-dot-com

Tesla list wrote:
> 
> Original poster: "Ryan Ries by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<spud-at-wf-dot-net>
> 
>         Okay, it looks like I live on to coil another day.  I'm not sure
what all
> was said about the thicker PVC and absorbing more RF, but I was able to
> completely sand away the carbon track and reveal fresh PVC underneath.  I
> then applied a new coat of polyurethane to the inside of the form. It's
> drying as we speak...
> 
>         So now I salvaged the coil, but I desire to find out what is
truly wrong
> with the system and make this coil work.  Starting with the ballast.  I
> have no powerstat/variac.  I had one for the 120v power for the neon sign
> transformers, but I have no idea how I'm going to get a 240v 10kva
> powerstat for the pig. ($$$) I have been using microwave oven transformers
> as ballasting, some fuses, and a master switch.  The extension cord used to
> transport the power is that oilfield stuff made with 3 6-gauge conductors
> coated with HEAVY insulation.  We lucked out by having a relative that
> works in the oilfield.
> 
> Just don't tell me to tap my primary in any further. :-)
> 
> -- Ryan Ries