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Re: AMRAD Spark Gaps



Original poster: "Metlicka Marc by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <mystuffs-at-orwell-dot-net>

luc,
i have been folowing this spark gap design with intrest. after looking at
the design you
scan into the mix, i have a few ideas to through out there. first, in the
washer conductor
assembly, i think some round carbide inserts would be a good choice. i hate
to keep blowing
the carbide horn, but there is little erosion and little expansion. these
pressed into
aluminum or copper washers could make a fine center conductor.
second, i think the use of ceramic washers in place of the acrilic would be
a good choice.
i wish now that i would have picked up the 100 plus 3" x 1/2" ceramic
washers left on the
ground afer a cooling tower construction project. this type of washer even
had concentric
indented rings arond each side to bite into the wood, this would have made
excelent "o"
ring grooves for sealing. and if inserts with holes through the center were
used, a gas
such as hydrogen or whatever could be passed through the center very
easily. a very
interesting idea indeed.
marc

Tesla list wrote:

> Original poster: "Luc by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<ludev-at-videotron.ca>
>
> Hi all
>
> I put a scan of an old plan for a quench gap on the web.
>  http://pages.infinit-dot-net/luc2/quenchgap.gif
> I don't know how it could perform especially with acrylic spacer. But may
> be you could calculate how
> much loss in the gap  vs how fast the gap could exhaust that heat . This
> plan come from Information
> Unlimited.
>
> Luc Benard
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> > Original poster: "Oxandale, Terry by way of Terry Fritz
> <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <Toxandale-at-SPP-dot-org>
> >
> > I'm not an industrial engineer, but I can hold my own in a mechanical
> > environment. When I built this (and I may have stated this earlier)
> > device, other than gasket problems (which were a concern even before I
> > built it but I was just using what I had on hand to see if it would
> > work), the only other problem was the uneven expansion of the discs
> > during the warm-up (initial arc time). the arcing side of each disc
> > would get hotter than the opposite (non-arcing) side, and thus this
> > uneven expansion closed the gap somewhat. Now multiply this times the
> > number of gaps, and you could have a significant problem with many gaps
> > (which is why I think mine worked best at about 5 to 6 gaps). Intuition
> > tells me that if we make the center arcing surface too large in area,
> > that this expansion problem will be exacerbated. I don't know if a
> > thinner disc would curve less than a thick disc would (due to the
> > temperature evening out quickly). Ideally you would want to use a single
> > disc that is symmetrically convex (like a lens) or like two hats put
> > together at the brim. This way, arcing would occur on both sides of the
> > disc, but in my case, this entailed machining that I did not have
> > available to me at the time. This is a most resourceful bunch of folks
> > on this list so I know somebody is going to come up with even better
> > ideas (other than a lot of elbow grease and grit like we used to do to
> > make telescope lenses)
>
> snip

Tesla list wrote:

> Original poster: "Luc by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<ludev-at-videotron.ca>
>
> Hi all
>
> I put a scan of an old plan for a quench gap on the web.
>  http://pages.infinit-dot-net/luc2/quenchgap.gif
> I don't know how it could perform especially with acrylic spacer. But may
> be you could calculate how
> much loss in the gap  vs how fast the gap could exhaust that heat . This
> plan come from Information
> Unlimited.
>
> Luc Benard
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> > Original poster: "Oxandale, Terry by way of Terry Fritz
> <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <Toxandale-at-SPP-dot-org>
> >
> > I'm not an industrial engineer, but I can hold my own in a mechanical
> > environment. When I built this (and I may have stated this earlier)
> > device, other than gasket problems (which were a concern even before I
> > built it but I was just using what I had on hand to see if it would
> > work), the only other problem was the uneven expansion of the discs
> > during the warm-up (initial arc time). the arcing side of each disc
> > would get hotter than the opposite (non-arcing) side, and thus this
> > uneven expansion closed the gap somewhat. Now multiply this times the
> > number of gaps, and you could have a significant problem with many gaps
> > (which is why I think mine worked best at about 5 to 6 gaps). Intuition
> > tells me that if we make the center arcing surface too large in area,
> > that this expansion problem will be exacerbated. I don't know if a
> > thinner disc would curve less than a thick disc would (due to the
> > temperature evening out quickly). Ideally you would want to use a single
> > disc that is symmetrically convex (like a lens) or like two hats put
> > together at the brim. This way, arcing would occur on both sides of the
> > disc, but in my case, this entailed machining that I did not have
> > available to me at the time. This is a most resourceful bunch of folks
> > on this list so I know somebody is going to come up with even better
> > ideas (other than a lot of elbow grease and grit like we used to do to
> > make telescope lenses)
>
> snip