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Re: New LTR Stuff

Hi Reinhard,

At 04:19 AM 6/12/99 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi Terry,
>
>> emmc04.jpg - A close up showing the terminals and 10Meg 1/2 watt drain
>> resistors.  I still strongly recommend these...  I do not recommend
>> interconnecting the strings since it defeats the selectable values and
>>will defeat the possible self healing of the caps.
>
>Did you crimp or solder on those solderless lugs? I wouldnīt trust
>crimping jobs at all.

They are both crimped and soldered.  It seems odd connecting the little
lead wires to 1/4 inch bolts but...

>
>> power01.jpg - My new variac control box.  Made from 3/4 inch oak with
>> cooling fan, nice safety lights, switches, and contactors as well as
>> dual stage AC filters and MOVs.  Front panel is t-6061 Aluminium
>>with rub on  lettering imbedded in polyurethane.  This baby will out
>>last me.  I forget how much it cost. :-))
>
>VERY cool looking. Provides all necessary equipment and looks totally
>"uncluttered" There can be nothing worse than having to fumble around
>finding the main on/off sw in an emergency....... I wanna see more
>pictures (like the insides and a schematic (unless this is a best-kept
>secret ;o)). I would add a jack for a remote control (like a foot
>switch), tho.

I am planning on writing up the whole LTR coil when it is all figured out.
I did have to make a wiring change to the control box tonight so it is not
quite stable design wise ;-)

>
>> sync01.jpg - My new sync gap.  A sync motor I got from Dr. Resonance,
>> poly disk cut from a commercial poly cutting board, Thorated tungsten
>> electrodes (destroyed two files cutting them and meticulously
>> containing the radioactive dust...) and a replacement drill chuck as a
>> mount for the disk.  The 1/8" tungsten rod costs about $1 per inch.
>> It is used in TIG welding and is commonly available but you have to
>> ask...  If any one needs the radioactive or plain kind let me know...
>
>Using an angle grinder mounted on a cut-off stand with a diamond coated
>cutting wheel (used e.g.for ceramics) will save you your files. One of
>course should wear a dust mask, when cutting them this way. You can
>save yourself the problems thorated ones present (at least in Europe),
>by using the new non-thorated ones. The ones I am talking about are
>NOT the pure tungsten ones. They have the same wear characteristics of
>thorated ones, but do not contain radioactive material. If you use the
>side pick up idea (Gary Lau & me), the electrodes do not have to be
>1000% plane on the ends, nor do they have to be 1000% the same
>length, because the arcing surface is now along the length and not
>the width of the electrode.

The welding shop had the non Thorated rods.  However, in a snap decision, I
got the others.  Next time I will stay away from the radio active stuff for
sure.  I got smart and simply took the rest of the rods to the precision
water diamond saw at work.  It sliced through them with zero dust and hassle.

>
>> sync02.jpg - I think this is a neat idea!  I got a $12 replacement
>> drill chuck from the hardware store.  It bits on the sync motor
>> shaft and has a 3/8-20 threaded hole on the back that I got a
>> bolt for.  It grabs the shaft and perfectly mounts and aligns the
>> disk on the motor shaft.  All high precision and very easy to
>> "play" with.  I worry about the chuck shaking loose with time
>> but one could always epoxy it.  This is a 1800 RPM motor
>> that will be fully enclosed so I don't worry...
>
>Hmmm. Something like a quick change differential, oops sorry, the car
>bug got the better of me, I meant of course a quick change for your
>BPS rate (using different disks with different electrode numbers).  I
>didnīt expect a $12 chuck to be precise enough for this....... ;o). On
>the other hand the drill isnīt supposed to wobble either. As your motor
>shaft is pretty thick, it should "grab" quite well.
>
>> sync03.jpg - The back of the rotor showing the 3/8-20 bolt, the poly
>>disk,
>> and the tungsten electrodes.  I hope the disk does not melt but this
>>gap will see fairly easy service so it should be ok...
>
>What material is your old RSG made of? It looks (really bright white)
>like Teflon or similar material.

It is the same 3/8 thick polypropylene cutting board material.

>
>Keep the photos "a cominī"
>
>
>Coiler greets from Germany,
>Reinhard
>

Cheers,

	Terry
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