RE: New rotary wheel
Subject: RE: New rotary wheel
From: richard.quick-at-slug-dot-org (Richard Quick)
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 17:44:00 GMT
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Quoting Ed Sonderman <Esondrmn-at-aol-dot-com>:
ES> To answer your question, yes I think I now have enough power
ES> and the system set up to produce 72" discharges - and then some.
Well you finally got there then. Good job!
ES> I think I am probably pushing the limit of the envelope at this
ES> point. I am somewhat concerned that I might be pushing too hard and
ES> will start to damage something.
Well, things can fail at any time, at any power really. I think you are
right though that the coil is pretty well peaked out.
ES> I think I will crank the welder down and limit the input current
ES> to somewhere around 30 amps for a while. I did go look at the
ES> breakers in the power box to confirm that they are 20 amp breakers.
ES> I am surprised they did not trip.
Humm, I suspected this. I have had the same problem. Different breakers
from different manufacturers tripping (or not tripping) under all
different kinds of loads with seemingly little regard for the breaker
rating. If you would be so kind as to find out what brand it is I want
to put this on my "don't buy" list.
I can understand (and don't have a problem with) a breaker that will
allow you to slip over the line a bit without tripping. But I have
too much at risk to use breakers that don't trip when I exceed the
rating by nearly 100%. Those worry me. Does anybody else have this
problem? What are the opinions about different makes of circuit
On circuits under 30 amps I use fuses exclusively. For some reason
I trust them a little more.
ES> BTW, how do you protect your low power lines that provide power
ES> for the spark gap fans and motors from getting hit? I presently
ES> have them inside a plastic pipe which is inside a 2.0" dia.
ES> steel pipe which is tied to system ground (RF ground).
I now use lengths of cheap coax. Nothing fancy. I ground the sheaths
to the system ground. If I see a length of coax that seems to be hit
repeatedly, I slip some vinyl tubing over it for added insulation.
Richard Hull uses a setup similar to what you are using right now.
I think he runs his lead wires through grounded conduit that in turn
is run inside of PVC pipe. BTW, Richard Hull bonds his 60 cycle ground
to the RF ground. But then again he has to go inside and unplug stuff
when he fires too... He has lost a TV, a dishwasher motor, and few
ES> Mark suggested grounding the rotary motor - which at this time is
ES> not. What do you do with yours? I don't think I want to tie it to
ES> RF ground and I really don't want to run a 60 cycle ground out to
ES> the coil.
I have two gap motors, a fixed speed and a variable. The fixed speed
requires a neutral wire as it is runs on 120 volts 60 cycle (120 hot &
a neutral). I do not ground the motor housing to the neutral wire. I
place a strike shield around the motor. I use a heavy duty reversed
line filter to keep the gap utility lines from bleeding RF back to the
power cabinet and breaker box.
The variable speed motor is DC. Once again I do not ground the motor
housing. I cover the motor with a strike shield. I use the same
grounded sheath coax as with my other gap utility leads to run in the
power. I use a small wire wound choke (off the shelf, 75 cents) in series
with each coax center conductor, and a small bypass cap across the line
to help protect the four diode bridge from any RF surges.
I fuse each gap utility line separately.
... If all else fails... Throw another megavolt across it!
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